Ben Glaetzer

Shiraz Amon Ra 2022

The 2022 Amon-Ra Shiraz speaks so clearly of the Glaetzer house style: that is to say, sleek, polished, powerful, seamless and fruit-driven. These are wines that speak of the Barossa in their earthy splay of pliable tannin, but they have a vibrance to the fruit that is most attractive. So, while these wines harness the place—this wine could hardly be from anywhere else—they do it in a restrained kind of way. Not that you could call this 2022 Amon-Ra Shiraz "restrained" and get away with it. More to comment on the fact that Barossa is yoked and controlled in this wine. I like it a lot. There are notes of dark chocolate, black cherries, raspberry pastille and even pomegranate molasses, alongside sweet paprika, ironstone and red earth, roasted meat and a throw of tapenade.

I feel that Ben Glaetzer's Amon-Ra is one of the flag bearers for contemporary Barossan shiraz, certainly when it comes to the more powerful, weighty styles. It has a sense of compression. Wildly concentrated black fruits and palate heft, yet it displays freshness and form; supple, lithe and possessed of northern subregional power writ large. There's an imperious tannin structure but the fruit just sucks it all up and charges on. One for the sybaritic indulger of Barossan wine. It's a ripper.

This seriously classy 2022 Amon-Ra is seamless and beautifully pitched with focus and refinement. Yet, it delivers powerful aromas of black licorice, fennel seed, and a core of blackberries dusted with star anise enriched by sweet, balanced oak. Impressive energy with a streamlined shape comes forward before building layers of sweet and savory tones. Chewy, fine tannins punctuate a finish of exceptional length. A stunning young wine that will build in bottle.