Champagne Moët & Chandon Champagne Dom Pérignon Vintage 2017

The 2017 Dom Pérignon is so impressive. A sort of mini-2002, the 2017 is a Champagne of textural richness and resonance above all else. Its creamy, voluptuous contours are so inviting. Production for the 2017 is tiny, about a three-month supply, so this wine will come and go pretty quickly. That represents a fairly dramatic shift in philosophy at Dom Pérignon. In the past, a wine like the 2017 would not have been commerically viable because of its small volume. Today, Chef de Caves Vincent Chaperon prefers to bottle Dom Pérignon in every vintage, if possible, as a document of the year, even if that means some releases will be very small. The 2017 is a wild, exotic Dom Pérignon. I loved it.

Of the two releases—the 2017 and the 2018—the 2017 Dom Pérignon is the deeper and more structurally endowed wine, unfurling from the glass with a complex bouquet of orange peel, dried apricot and burnt buttered toast, mingling with nuances of dried flowers, toasted hazelnut and cacao bean, all strongly singed with the house’s signature smoky reduction. On the palate, it is full-bodied and concentrated, with a rich core of fruit. Its darker, open-knit profile is animated by a pillowy mousse, vibrant acidity and attractively bitter, structuring phenolics that assert themselves on a long, resonant finish. This is a superb achievement for a vintage that required uncompromising selection, as acetic rot began to intrude upon the Pinot Noir grapes despite otherwise favorable conditions until mid-August. The fact that it represents the smallest Dom Pérignon release by volume should not mislead readers into complacency; indeed, I would much sooner own several bottles of the 2017 than divide my allocation with the 2018. A blend of 61% Chardonnay and 39% Pinot Noir, it was disgorged in March 2024 with a dosage of five grams per liter and will offer considerable complexity and generosity out of the gates.